How to Clean and Store Outdoor Furniture for Winter
Outdoor furniture usually fails over winter rather than over summer, and almost always because it was put away damp or covered too tightly.
Clean before you store, always
Pollen, sap and bird mess are acidic and will etch a finish over months of storage. A basic wash with warm water and mild dish soap, a soft brush and a full rinse handles most surfaces.
By material
- Powder coated aluminium and steel: soap and water. Touch up any chips with matching paint so bare metal cannot start rusting under a cover.
- Teak and hardwood: soap and water with the grain. Left untreated it silvers naturally, which harms nothing. If you want the honey colour, apply teak oil in spring rather than before storage.
- Resin wicker and rattan effect: soft brush into the weave, rinse, and dry fully before covering because water sits inside the weave.
- Plastic and resin: soap and water, and a paste of baking soda for stubborn marks. Avoid abrasive pads which leave a rough surface that stains faster next year.
- Glass tabletops: standard glass cleaner, and check the retaining clips before lifting.
Cushions come indoors
Cushions are the first thing to go mouldy. Vacuum them, spot clean, then dry completely in the sun before storing in a dry indoor space in a breathable bag or bin. Never seal a slightly damp cushion in plastic, which is exactly how mildew starts.
Cover correctly
- Use a breathable cover, not a plastic tarp. A sealed tarp traps condensation against the furniture.
- Wait until everything is fully dry.
- Raise legs off the ground on blocks so water cannot wick up.
- Secure the cover so wind cannot lift and flap it, which abrades the finish.
- Check under the cover once mid winter on a dry day.
Store what you can
Stack and store folding and lightweight pieces inside a shed or garage if you have room. Anything stored outside should be tucked against a wall on the sheltered side of the house rather than left in the open.
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